I visited Verona years ago on an Intermezzo Tour (which I think is now Italiatour). I loved it. However, I think that what you, Roger, did was great, because you got to spend a good deal of time in one area. Unfortunately, typical tours are not designed that way, and it inhibits us from really appreciating and learning the culture fully. Thanks for sharing your experience, and for the excellent tip about Elderhostel. Although I am not over 50, I had an opportunity to peruse their brochure, and they do have excellent programs--not your typical "If-it's-Tuesday-this-must-be-Belgium" tours!